By Krista Winjum
“Food is love,” was my mom’s mantra.
She taught me the connections between the earth, food, and seasonality. We grew many of our own herbs, vegetables, and fruits wherever we lived. On school holidays, we ate our way across Europe.
Joanne Winjum, my mom, was a small-town Minnesotan farmer’s daughter with a Ph.D. in art history. My dad, Jim, is a small-town Minnesotan trucker’s son with a Ph.D. in accounting. Due to my parents’ advanced degrees, we lived in England when I was 4 and 8.
At home in Ann Arbor, Michigan, starting at the age of 10, I watched Julia Child on Saturday mornings instead of cartoons. She was just as funny as a cartoon, but real. She taught that while technique was serious, cooking and eating were fun.
Mom shared my enthusiasm for food, fun, and Julia.
Our bible was “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” co–authored by Julia and Simone Beck. Our favorite dish was her famous French onion soup, which became the centerpiece of our New Year’s Eve dinners.
We never made recipes as written. Co-conspirators, our love of flavor lead us to add extra this, an extra spoonful of that. If a recipe called for one clove of garlic, Mom added three. If it called for two, she added five. Most nights, we left the table with garlic breath.
Our kitchen accommodated several cooks. Dad wired speakers in every room of the first floor, so we’d blast music, chop, stir, sing, and dance.
Mom’s favorite song was Three Dog Night’s “Joy to the World.”
“Jeremiah was a bullfrog,” she’d sing. “Was a good friend of mine.” Then we’d get silly and start imitating Julia: “Save the liver!” and toast each other with “bon appetit!”
While we both loved food, we had different favorites. Mom drank iced white wine. I liked red wine. She loved anything crispy-–the tiny French fries that fall to the bottom of the bag, the sugary, brittle corners of brownies, and the crunchy caramelized end pieces of roasts were her favorites.
I liked the softer bits, so I got the bigger French fries, brownies from the middle of the pan, and the rare slices from the roast. We snuck food onto each other’s plates, trading crispy bits for soft.
However, dislikes were not coddled. Mom loved certain vegetables that I hated. This meant that I had to eat green-pepper-laden goulash, Brussels sprouts, and piles of lima beans.
We repeated our favorite dishes throughout the seasons. The classic French recipe "40 cloves of garlic chicken" (Mom used 60), and boeuf bourguignon were standard on cold winter days. Summer brought salade nicoise and pitchers of homemade sangria.
She made special treats when my brother and I were sick. A cold meant perfectly poached eggs on buttered toast. The flu meant real brandy in our lemon tea and rich chicken and dumplings.
When I had back surgery in 1996, Mom flew out to Seattle with bags of Hungarian paprika. She made pork paprikash with homemade spätzle (noodles), coq au vin, and chicken and dumplings. I still have a bag of the paprika in the freezer.
Mom was diagnosed with end-stage lung cancer in December, 2001. During 2002, I visited several times, making her favorite foods each time.
I cooked gyros with ground lamb and lots of garlic, but left the lemon out of the sauce because it hurt her mouth. She enjoyed my homemade baklava, and my bread pudding was sweet and soothing.
I returned to Michigan when Mom went into the hospital the day after Thanksgiving 2002. She was so sick that she hadn’t cooked Thanksgiving dinner. After dad and I visited her in the hospital, he asked me to cook the full dinner.
For our family, Thanksgiving dinner was about cooking together, music blasting, drinking wine, and having fun. That day I cooked alone, tears running down my face. I roasted the turkey, made stuffing, and tried to remember exactly how mom made her incredible brown-sugared yams.
When the dinner was ready, I couldn’t bear to sit down to eat it alone with my dad. We packed it up, took it to the hospital, and ate with mom. She was thrilled.
I haven’t been able to cook Thanksgiving dinner since.
When mom went into a hospice a few weeks later, I brought smoked salmon linguini and lasagna, fresh fruits and vegetables, and chocolate cake. I topped toasted English muffins with poached eggs.
I don’t know if she was actually able to taste the food. The cancer was in her brain, affecting her senses.
She couldn’t smell very well, and I think her sense of taste was also affected. However, she declared everything “delicious” and I quoted her back to herself, “Food is love, Mom.”
On New Year’s Eve, we had Julia Child’s French onion soup. Mom’s eyes sparkled as I brought it to the table, and she held my hand while we ate.
That was the last meal I cooked for her.
When she died a few days later, we wrote in her obituary:
“Joanne never wore perfume from a bottle–-her signature scent was that of delicious meals. When we smelled the aroma of olive oil, garlic, and onions, we knew that Mom was in the kitchen.”
At her funeral, the only song we played was “Joy to the World” from Three Dog Night.
On Aug. 13, 2004, I logged on to my computer at work and read that Julia Child had died. It was as if my second mother was gone. I burst into tears when I read that Julia Child’s last meal had been her own French onion soup, the same as I cooked for Mom.
I felt the loss of my mother all over again in Julia’s passing. We were so intertwined. From them both I learned that food is love–-put your heart into it and share it with as many people as you can.
This story was written by Krista Winjum, a student in my writing class at the University of Washington Extension during fall 2007.
See also: My Mother’s Garden
@ Krista Winjum 2008.